As is usual with mysterious "permission denied" errors, SELinux was the underlying cause. ...
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as
ID▼ Status Resolution Sev Product Comp Assignee Reporter Summary
2058 CLOS FIXE enh Sisyphus nautilus aris slava Все пакеты этой группы бесполезны в текущей версии Gnome

File a new bug in the "nautilus2-themes" component of the "Sisyphus" product